Archive for Europe
Location is Everything at Hotel Sultan Hill
Posted by: | CommentsWanders traveling to Istanbul, Turkey, should consider sleeping by the Blue Mosque at the Hotel Sultan Hill.
Just off the south end of the Hippodrome and literally in the shadow of the Blue Mosque, the hotel is also walking distance from the Hagia Sophia, Grand Bazaar, Topkapi Palace and the underground cistern. The Sultanahmet tram stop, which provides easy access to the Galata Bridge and a quick connection to the airport metro, is a short walk away.
Our room was spacious, clean and adequately appointed. The staff we encountered were friendly and eager to help. The hotel’s breakfast offering was standard European fare; cold cuts, breads, boiled eggs and the like. The hotel’s rooftop terrace provides great views of the Blue Mosque, especially at night when the towering minarets are bathed in light. There are also numerous restaurant choices just a few streets away.
My only note of caution would be to request a room away from the street, especially on the lower floors. Traffic noise might just be enough to bother a light sleeper.
Blue Mosque from the rooftop terrace
Political Art and Troubles in Belfast, Northern Ireland
Posted by: | CommentsAs a kid, I remember the evening news often talked of civil unrest and outright urban war in Belfast, Northern Ireland. I really didn’t give it much thought because at the time I was more concerned about football and girls than the political situation in a very distant place.
But something must have stuck, because the city and its struggles have always intrigued me. That’s why I couldn’t miss the opportunity to travel to Belfast as a day trip from Dublin when we visited the Irish capital.
In our travels, my lovely wife and I have been in a location or two where we felt uncomfortable and maybe even a bit unsafe, and that’s exactly what I expected from Belfast. While my rational mind told me this was not the Belfast of the 1980s, my irrational mind did its part to create concern.
We were most interested in exploring the city’s famous murals which are painted to express both political and religious views. The murals are spread out, so we decided to hire a cabby to show us the city. We hired our driver through Belfast Attractions. A 1.5-hour tour guide cost about $45, a decent travel deal. He picked us up at the train station and our Belfast travel trip began there.
Our tour included the murals on Falls Road and Shankill Road as well as Milltown Cemetery. We also visited a few gardens of remembrance which were built to honor the lives lost during “The Troubles.”
I was captivated by what our driver called the Peace Wall. Built to divide the Falls Road and Shankill Road neighborhoods, our driver told us the wall’s gates are still locked at 6 p.m. to prevent cars from passing between neighborhoods at night. He also showed us that the homes which are built close to the wall have defensive fences to protect the windows from objects hurled over from the other side. Our driver was Catholic so we only spent a little time in the Protestant areas, especially Shankill, because he said he was “not comfortable” there.
The Peace Wall
Defensive fencing on homes near the Peace Wall
In spite of what my irrational mind was trying to tell me, I never felt unsafe in Belfast. While many of the murals espoused violence and revenge, the people with whom we dealt were friendly and nobody really gave us a second look.
After our tour we walked to Sandy Row which greets visitors with a chilling reminder that the violence may have subsided, but the scars of the city’s sectarian divide are far from faded.
Lisbon Lovin’, Lovin’ Lisbon It’s All Good
Posted by: | CommentsI’m always happy when a new travel destination exceeds my expectations. I have expected much, and received far more, from places like Dubrovnik, Croatia; Granada and Ronda in Spain; Beijing, China, and Chicago, USA. But one place captured my heart when I really didn’t even know why I was visiting, other than it was close by and I hadn’t been there yet.
It’s easy to spout off the reasons to visit places like London, Rome, Tokyo or Seattle, but ask someone to name the tourist attractions in Lisbon, Portugal, and you’ll probably receive only a blank stare in return. While the Portuguese capital many not be high on many travelers’ must-see lists, it ranks among my favorite places in all the world.
Why Lisbon? That’s easy…
Neighborhoods – The Baixa is Lisbon’s old downtown, the winding streets of the sailors’ quarter are called the Alfama and you can look down on the town from the Bairro Alto.
Bairro Alto
Belem – The Monastery of Jeronimos’ breathtaking cloisters, the soaring and inspiring Monument to the Discoveries and the island fortress of Belem Tower.
Monastery of Jeronimos
Food – Hidden in a crappy-looking building along Rua das Portas de Santo Antao, Casa do Alentejo offers hearty meals and a charming atmosphere. Above the main square in the Bairro Alto, Cervejaris Trindade serves homemade brew and meals in Lisbon’s oldest beer hall which is housed in a former monastery. How’s that for history? If the weather allows, sit outside in the cloisters.
Casa do Alentejo
Sidewalks – Where else can you find pattern-tile sidewalks that themselves are works of art?
tiled sidewalks
Sintra – Hop on the train and spend the day in this former summer city of Portugal’s kings and queens. The Royal Palace with its unique twin chimneys is interesting, but it’s whimsical, Ludwig-esque Pena Palace that’s Sintra’s star. You can also see the ruins of a Moorish castle and views of the Atlantic Ocean.
Pena Palace
Public Transit – The hilly city uses trolleys, funiculars and elevators like the Elevador de Santa Justa, designed by a student of Gustav Eiffel, to move locals and tourists around. Much cooler than buses and subways.
Elevador de Santa Justa
To borrow, and butcher, a line from the Fresh Prince, “Lisbon lovin’, lovin’ Lisbon it’s all good, I’m lovin’ Lisbon it’s all good.”
NatGeo Traveler Names Europe’s Top 10 Train Trips
Posted by: | CommentsI’m a huge fan of riding the rails and the July/August issue of National Geographic Traveler has a neat article highlighting Europe’s top 10 train trips.
Old Span is Mostar’s Bridge to the Future
Posted by: | CommentsWe often hear stories about war-torn countries struggling to rebuild, or in some cases create, a tourist base after years of conflict. I have only limited experience traveling in such regions but I have found that what’s left after the fighting can make for an interesting and informative travel trip.
I’ve been thinking recently about a journey I took a few years ago to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The city saw intense fighting during Yugoslavia’s civil war and witnessed much destruction to its people, infrastructure and heritage.
Mostar is famous for its Ottoman bridge which stood for more than 400 years before it was destroyed in the Balkan war. While many buildings in Mostar still show the wounds of war, the bridge has been rebuilt.
My Mostar trip was one of my earliest travels into a region that had only recently experienced armed conflict. At first I was uncomfortable, especially with the ever-present signs of war, but that unease quickly disappeared and was replaced with a fascination at the city’s resilience and recovery.
Standing at bridge’s peak, tourists are surrounded by evidence of the physical toll war can levy on a city. Buildings wear the pockmark wounds of machine gun fire. The ancient bridge that carries today’s tourists across the river laid in ruins in the waters below. While the brick and mortar damage is extensive, it must pale in comparison to the unimaginable human tragedy suffered by the people who call Mostar home.
Take a look at a Mostar article I put together for The Oklahoman following my trip.
She’s the Greatest Gal in the Whole Entire World
Posted by: | CommentsToday is my anniversary. Eleven years ago today the most beautiful gal in the whole entire world became my lovely wife.
We set out not to conquer the world, but to explore it. All of it. The whole entire world.
Our honeymoon was our first trip to Europe. After more than a decade of travel together, we look back on that journey, shake our heads and laugh. What were we thinking? The stunts we pulled would make Clark W. Griswold look like Rick Steves.
London was the first stop on our first journey. It was cold and rainy (not that unusual for London, you know) and I was freezing because I was wearing shorts. Probably the only guy in the whole entire United Kingdom wearing shorts that day. I’m sure most people were asking themselves, “What the bloody hell is that twit thinking?”
We managed to get from the airport to Victoria Station without any trouble, but couldn’t figure out how to get to our hotel from the busy train station.
After standing around in the rain we decided to hail a cab, nervous that we didn’t have enough cash on us to get where we needed to go.
How did we solve that problem? We just hopped in the black cab and asked the cabby, “We only have 40 pounds, is that enough?” Luckily, he just grinned, drove us to our hotel and didn’t take us for every pence.
Thus began a great 11 years of life, love and adventure.
I’ve seen countless wonders in 38 countries on four continents over those 11 years, and I did it all with the most wonderful gal in the whole entire world.
Fun in the Fjords – Norway in a Nutshell
Posted by: | CommentsThe following is an excerpt from an article published in the May 1, 2008, edition of Edmond Life and Leisure.
floating the fjords
No Norwegian vacation should be limited to only the country’s urban areas, and the best way to experience Norway’s scenic mountains and fjords is an organized trip called Norway in a Nutshell.
While possible as a day trip from Oslo, many tourists use this trip as transportation between the capital and Bergen, Norway’s second largest city and a tourist destination itself.
From Oslo, the Nutshell tour begins with a long train ride across the countryside. Hikers and other passengers hop on and off at the many quick stops as the train climbs its way to the mountain station at Myrdal. The connection point for the Flam Railway, Myrdal is a good place to grab a quick bite before the descent from mountain high to sea level low and the fjord cruise connection in Flam.
Kjosfossen waterfall
The one-hour trip from Myrdal to Flam is packed with waterfalls, tunnels and wonderful views of the Flam valley. The train stops at the 305-foot Kjosfossen waterfall, which provides electric power for the railway, for photos and an opportunity for tourists to get soaked by its spray. The train passes through 20 tunnels on its journey, one of which makes a 180-degree turn inside the mountain.
After arriving in Flam, join the stampede to the most exciting leg of the journey, a boat ride on two scenic arms of the Sognefjord. You will likely be pushed and shoved as other Nutshellers race to get the best views from seats on the boat’s top deck. The floating journey starts on the Aurlandsfjord and passes waterfalls and picturesque villages tucked under the mountains next to the glacier-carved fjord.
Shutterbugs will love this two-hour cruise, especially when the boat enters the dramatic Naeroyfjord. The narrowest arm of the Sognefjord, this is the highlight of the entire day. The mountains seem to rise straight up from the water and the narrow passes look just wide enough for the boat to squeeze through.
Once the boat arrives in Gudvangen tourists transfer to buses for the long climb from the valley floor up to Voss and the train connection back to Oslo o
r on to Bergen.
We took the Nutshell trip as a round trip from Olso. Our advice to future travelers, don’t do it, go on to Bergen. We left Oslo at 6:30 am and did not return until almost 11 pm. It makes for a very long day and only about three hours are spent amongst the scenic beauty we traveled so far to see. The round trip from Olso includes two different five-hour train rides. Whether day tripping from Oslo or connecting to Bergen, it’s best to have a reservation as the trip is popular with tourists and the trains and boat can be crowded.
Even Hail Hell Can’t Sink a Slovenian Sojourn
Posted by: | CommentsA huge hail storm that recently swept through my hometown reminded me of a bit of hail storm hell I experienced while on a rowboat in the middle of an idyllic lake in the Julian Alps.
The tiny hamlet of Bled sits on a lake of the same name in the northwest corner of the Balkan country of Slovenia. Surrounded by mountains and a cliff-top castle, Bled’s fairytale setting comes complete with 17th-century church built on a tiny island in the middle of a sapphire-blue alpine lake.
Visitors ride wooden pletna boats across the lake to visit the church. Powered only by the oarsman, the trip is a relaxing ride. My ride to the island was enjoyable but it was the ride back to the dock that was most memorable.
As we were about to leave the island, we heard a rumble of thunder and our oarsman said we needed to hurry to try to beat the storm.
We didn’t make it.
Just a few minutes into the journey, the downpour came. After we were thoroughly soaked, the hail storm moved in. The boat’s decorative canvas canopy did fine in blocking the sun, but hail was another story. Although the hail stones were only about the size of a quarter, it was still an unpleasant experience. We eventually found cover under a private boathouse where we sat to wait out the storm.
watching the storm from the safety of the boathouse
Monkey Around on the Rock of Gibraltar
Posted by: | CommentsA bit of jolly old England surrounded by Spain and the sea, Gibraltar is an entertaining stop on any coastal travel trip.
Towering high above the Mediterranean coast, the Rock of Gibraltar is the tiny territory’s “top” tourist terrain. You can hike up (crazy) or ride the cable car to the top of the rock. From the summit you can see ships at sea and, on a clear day, Africa in the distance. I read somewhere that it’s possible to view the Atlantic Ocean, Mediterranean Sea and the continents of Europe and Africa from this spot, which I think is pretty cool.
It’s great fun to watch the famous Barbary Apes climb and crawl around to the delight of tourists. The tailless monkeys are accustomed to people and have been known to pick a pocket if not carefully watched.
Back down in town, take a stroll down the pedestrian-only Main Street, see the courthouse where John Lennon and Yoko Ono were married and grab a chair at one of the many pubs along Casemates Square.
Leave the country like you entered, by literally crossing the airport runway.
Travel to Dublin: Don’t Miss and Dismiss
Posted by: | CommentsDon’t Miss & Dismiss is an occasional series of travel guide posts about the best (Don’t Miss) and worst (Dismiss) tourist sites in cities all over the world.
When I learned a buddy was planning to travel to Dublin, Ireland, I set about putting together a travel guide of things for him to do on his Irish travel trip. Here are my Don’t Miss and Dismiss Dublin opinions.
Don’t Miss: Trinity College Tour
The student-led tour of the grounds is easily my favorite thing to do in Dublin. I enjoy the school’s interesting history and the guides’ often-humorous insight into Irish college life. The tour also includes a visit to the famous Book of Kells and the library’s impressive long room.
Dismiss: Temple Bar
I admit you should take a stroll through the Temple Bar, but don’t stay long. If you’re looking to hang out with a bunch of other tourists, this is the place to find them.
Don’t Miss: Irish Music Pub Crawl
You bet it’s hokey and touristy, but it’s also a darn good time. Led by local musicians, the tour visits a handful of pubs and provides a fun and educational look (and listen) inside traditional Irish music.
Dismiss: Guinness Storehouse
You can’t visit Dublin without drinking a Guinness. That said, I humbly suggest that you throw back your pint of the dark drink somewhere other than the Guinness Storehouse. The expensive (€15) admission doesn’t cover any of the working parts of the brewery, but provides plenty of opportunity to purchase Guinness-branded souvenir junk.
Don’t Miss: Kilmainham Gaol
I likely would have skipped the Kilmainham Jail, but my lovely wife insisted we visit, and I’m glad she did. The guided tour is excellent and brings the jail’s history to life. Kilmainham is a must for anyone remotely interested in Ireland’s struggle for independence.
Dismiss: O’Connell Street
This big, wide boulevard straddles an uninspiring collection of statues honoring Irish heros and is also home to the 390-foot monstrosity called the Spire of Dublin. We found O’Connell Street so mediocre that we didn’t even take any photos.
Don’t Miss: Number 29 Georgian House
An entertaining museum, Number Twenty-Nine Georgian House represents a middle-class Georgian home and
provides an informative look at everyday life in the late 18th century. As an added bonus, the museum is located right off Merrion Square, a great place to photograph a slew of Dublin’s characteristic and colorful Georgian doors.
